Monday, May 30th ~ Pula & Brijuni, Croatia

Morgan


The word of the day: Full. Today was jammed packed with culture, breathtaking sights, food and knowledge. With an early start, we found ourselves wandering the streets of Pula; a stunning port city with a vantage point of the Istrian peninsula. The first stop on our tour, guided by Mrs. Ljerka Mikic and Aleksandra Paic, was the magnificent Pula Coliseum, which is pictured above. As the sixth largest Roman coliseum in Europe, Pula’s gem boasts some of the best conservation efforts that we have seen. With a long history as a gladiator arena, a cattle corral, and now a concert hall (with the likes of Sting, Nora Jones, and U2 performing there), the coliseum provided ample opportunity to reflect on life through the centuries in a town such as Pula.

Our lecture today discussed the evolution of culture in this region, and we were able to witness aspects of this first hand. Focusing on sanitation, infectious diseases and public health in general, our lesson chronicled the progression of standards and regulations throughout time. Toilets progressed from publicly used holes in the middle of Roman towns, to bedpans and outhouses, and finally our modern day toilets.

After brief free time in beautiful Pula we set out to catch a boat to the pristine archipelago of the Brijuni islands. As you can see in the photo, the water was stunning! Made famous by its political inhabitant, former Yugoslavian president, Josip Tito, the isles of Brijuni provide endless aesthetic pleasure against a crystal blue Adriatic background. The main island, which we toured by “train” (think Walt Disney World tram), boasts many attractions including several hotels and resorts, a golf course and an exotic animal ranch, which is home to a herd of zebras, ostriches, Shetland ponies, an elephant, and the spunky goat pictured above!

On the heels of a fantastic lunch, a brief rest on the dock, and a boat ride back to the mainland, we stopped at an olive farm in Vodnjan. Educated by the owners and operators of the difference between table and oil fruits, the harvest time (10 years!) and the olive oil business in general, it was an informative excursion that allowed us to appreciate the importance of a longstanding Croatian livelihood.

We wrapped up the day with an extended dinner at a cheese-making farm in Guran, where we were spoiled by another five-course meal! Feeling stuffed and satisfied with all that we have to take in, I will say good night. We head to the coast tomorrow and from what I have witnessed thus far, we will not be disappointed. Makarska, here we come!

     

Sunday, May 29th ~ Porec & Rovinj, Croatia

Andie

Our day started with a vocabulary brainstorm on the bus. We had run out of adjectives to adequately describe the scenery of the places we are visiting; beautiful was being overused and sometimes did not feel sufficient for some of the breathtaking views. We came up with an extensive list which I am sure we will put to good use.  

Our first stop was in the seaside town of Poreć where we toured the historic town and the Euphrasian Basilica, pictured above. This was an enormous structure that had intricate mosaic tile images above the alter area in the chapel. After our tour, we traveled to Old Town Dvigrad, an area the plague decimated multiple times. In Europe there were three plague epidemics, which occurred around 542, 1347-1348, and then in 1664. The plague is caused by a pathogen which is transmitted via burrowing rodents, including marmots, squirrels, prairie dogs and rats. The microorganism which carries the disease is transmitted from rodent to rodent through fleas. Of these rodents, the black rat was of most concern as it was a good climber, and it does not shy away from humans.

During the epidemic of the 1340’s approximately 30-60% of all people in Europe died of the plague. In Dvigrad, the residents left when the plague came, and then returned when it was no longer present. They did not understand the way it was transmitted, nor did they understand the need of hygiene, sanitation, and isolation. They treated the plague with blessings and the involvement of the church because they felt it was caused by the wrath of God. Dvigrad was deserted one final time, and the town has become dilapidated.  The group spent time learning about the history of the town and then took time to explore the ruins. After a while we moved on to have lunch in this beautiful little spot along the river.

After lunch we traveled to the Bioaramatica, an agricultural products company which grows natural herbs. We toured through terraced fields of lavender, grapes, cypress trees, and various herbs, which are pictured above. The owner, Mr. Boris Filipaj gave us a guided tour and instructed us on the various plants and their uses. His excitement over the various uses of the products was infectious, and many of us were eager to explore his shop to experience the amazing, natural products he created.

After touring the agricultural facility, we continued on to our final destination of the day, Rovinj. Here we toured the town, making our way to the church at the top of the hill, overlooking the sea below. The town was picturesque and the attached photo does not do it justice. We learned the history of the church, and the miracles associated with it. We were warned to be careful on the walk back down the hill as the roads are made from limestone, which after years of use have become smooth and slippery. There were no handrails to assist in the descent, so we all took it slow and steady to prevent any injuries. Once our time in Rovinj ended, we headed back to the hotel (pictured in the distance at the top of the hill behind the group) for an evening of free time. It was a beautiful day with perfect weather. We have been so fortunate this trip with the fantastic weather, and we are hoping it continues! Until next time!

Saturday, May 28th ~ Istria, Croatia

Katherine

Today we said farewell to Zagreb and headed out early this morning towards Istria. It is the first day that we have woken up to bad weather; which is fine by me because we were traveling most of the day. I know I have mentioned our amazing bus driver before, but he needs a shout out for his driving skills once again. Instead of making us walk to our usual meeting place in the rain he parallel parked the charter bus in front of the hotel.  Yes, I did write parallel parked, as you can see in the photo above. He did it with such grace you would think this is a normal daily activity. What an incredible man!

We had to turn in our journals for check-ins and a written assignment. Since we had no access to work, everyone relaxed and most fell asleep. During our travels we made a few stops through out Istria before arriving to our final destination of Motovun.

Our first stop was a city called Labin. While in Labin we visited a Medical Center and had an intensive tour from Dr. Helena Vlacic. It definitely opened my eyes to the differences between how private we are in the United States about our health care and how Croatia has no regulations about privacy in their health care system. We went into every room regardless if there was a patient in there and saw a lot more than we would have been allowed to see in the U.S. They even told us what the patient was diagnosed with. It was an interesting experience to say the least. What I thought was great about this medical center, however, was that they offer all primary and preventative care in one place. You could hypothetically get your teeth cleaned and then get a mammogram done on the same day. This is beneficial for people who do not have cars or the elderly who have trouble moving around. They have access to it all in one place. Although they can perform minor emergencies like stitches and setting a broken finger, they cannot handle anything major. The nearest trauma hospital is about a thirty-minute ambulance ride if speeding, so I would argue about forty-five minutes away. Visiting the medical center today, the optical medical center yesterday, and lectures have given us a unique perspective of what social health care versus private health care looks like. I do not think I could have gained the knowledge I have now with out these experiences in Croatia.

After leaving the medical center went traveled further into Labin and had a boxed lunch and grabbed some gelato in the main square. We also visited a museum that showed us what it was like to work in a mine. It had an interactive mine section where we put on hard hats and went through like actual miners, as seen in the photo above. A littler later into our travels we stopped in Beram and visited a Gothic Church. It was off the beaten path and it did not look like much on the outside. Once on the inside though, we saw these beautiful frescos (pictured above) that had been preserved for centuries. It is amazing to see the amount of time and effort Croatia has put in to preserving their heritage.

As we got closer to our final destination we saw what looked like an old fortress with walls around it. It sits on top of a hill and is the major focal point in the area. Another member of our trip, Eric, had to remind me that this sight was Motovun. I had to do a double take to realize that this is where we would be staying for the next few days. The hotel we are staying in is in fact an old castle, hence the name Hotel Kastle! I do not know what to expect because it is so different from Zagreb. I can promise that the group is really excited for what will be thrown our way!

Friday, May 27th ~ Zagreb, Croatia: LADO

Morgan


Our day began with an invitation to view a dress rehearsal of the internationally acclaimed LADO ensemble. A national company comprised of 35 dancing and singing Croats, LADO preserves Croatian culture and heritage by incorporating historic dress, song and dance into all of their performances. The photo posted above will give you an idea of the intricate detail in each of the costumes. Established in 1949, the company performs worldwide, but calls the Zagreb Theatre its home. Dr. Reap told us that this is only the second time in eight years that the company has been in Zagreb, so it was a big honor that we were extended such an invitation. The hour-long rehearsal was prefaced with a guided tour of the building where offices, practice spaces and LADO memorabilia are kept. It was truly incredible to see photographs of all of the people LADO has performed for in the last six decades.


After we grabbed lunch around the corner from the theatre and main campus, we took a quick detour to the Zagreb Botanical Gardens. This conserved and luscious landscape in the heart of Zagreb is a testament to the city’s commitment to providing green space for citizens.


From the park everyone jumped on a tram (talk about hectic), and we headed to the University Department of Ophthalmology for a presentation by Dr. Ante Barišić. As the cataract and glaucoma guru, Dr. Barišić was the perfect instructor. The presentation chronicled the growth of the eye clinic “Svjetlost” since it was established in 1997, its expansion into neighboring countries, including Bosnia, Serbia, Kosovo and Montenegro, and its strong business philosophy, which focuses on investment in young doctors and partnerships between colleagues and other practices. Yet, perhaps the most relevant topic of conversation, and the undercurrent for the entire visit, was the fact that Svjetlost is a privately owned and operated hospital. Free from any type of contract from the state, Svjetlost offers corrective and medical surgeries for those who want to bypass the possible waiting lists associated with state hospitals and are able to pay out of pocket. While we were being given a tour of the clinic, it was interesting to learn that the cost of Lasik eye surgery for both eyes at Svjetlost was just over $2,000. Andie said she paid $4,000 in Atlanta just two years ago. This was something that really stuck with me all day! How insane. You could literally buy a plane ticket to Zagreb, get Lasik and have a European vacation for the same price as receiving the same operation in the U.S!


It was also shocking to see the lack of privacy in the clinic. Where we would cry HIPAA, our guide literally opened a door (without knocking), and showed us an exam room: with a five year-old child sitting in the examination chair clearly sedated from surgery. A few people on the tour said that they were incredibly uncomfortable as that scene played out multiple times. To see the stark contrast between societal standards and expectations was especially eye opening (pun intended). It is easily observed in the picture above that the quality of equipment, materials and rooms would rival any American clinic, yet this slight difference in ethical code was what stood out to many. At the end of the tour, a group of us looked around in the eye glasses showroom and modeled some of their most stylish options, as you can see in the photo above.


Since classes were able to meet at odd times throughout the week (in the morning before breakfast or on one of the many bus rides), lectures were cancelled for the afternoon and we were able to walk around the city for a few hours! It was a beautiful day in Zagreb and it was wonderful to be able to experience the people, the shops, various museums, and the food one last time. Tomorrow we are off to Istria and you can feel the anticipation. It’s as if we can’t get enough of this incredible country. Until next time!

Thursday, May 26th ~ Zumberak, Croatia

Andie

Our day started with a Happy Birthday serenade on the bus for three students celebrating birthdays abroad, myself included. We headed out and drove through a suburb of Zagreb, Samobor, where we were directed to look at the new construction in the area. We were guided by Dr. Ivo Turk, a demographer from the Pilar Institute, who explained that all of the new growth in this area is proof that Zagreb is growing as people are moving from the rural areas of Croatia into the metro area. This area is especially appealing as there are single family homes which allow for gardens, a phenomenon that is uncommon within the Zagreb city-center. The amount of growth is not yet clear, but a census was completed within the last month, and analysis of these data once they are available will clarify the rate of immigration to this area.

The growth in Samobor has resulted in traffic congestion, so multiple traffic calming devices have been created. One such device, the round-about, was very common in this town. Dr. Cotton observed that Samobor looks nothing like it did just five years ago; it was once a small, sleepy village and now it is an area alive with the hustle and bustle of business. In the town center, we went to a local café and had a cappuccino and Kremšnita (pictured above), a delightful egg crème pastry with a texture of Tiramisu but a light vanilla flavor. After our morning treat, we walked to the Licitar Bakery, which makes small biscuits that are decorated and used as ornaments, which are pictured above. The biscuits are edible and we were treated to a honey flavor which was quite nice. The group then continued on to the Samobor Museum, which was located on a picturesque square alongside a small, lazy river and we were able to learn about the history of the local area. Adjacent to the museum was an example of a historic home which displayed artifacts of daily life in early Samobor.

When our time in Samobor ended, the group boarded our purple chariot for a short ride into the Žumberak, which is a rural region of Croatia. This is a region that is known for beautiful vistas, clean air and friendly people. Even with such positive attributes, due to the difficulty in finding employment in the area, the population is decreasing. The median age in the region is approximately 60 years, which is much higher than Croatia as a whole (approximately 40 years). There are many problems associated with Žumberak, including low density roads, poor access to health care, and limited access to public water supplies. Residents in this region use preventative services less as they are not offered in a local setting, and driving the long distance to Zagreb is not feasible simply for a screening. As a result, residents of this region are more likely to have long-term illnesses due to lack of access to health care.

When we first arrived, we departed the bus and took a leisurely, three kilometer walk down the mountain to a wonderful property where we had a boxed lunch. The views, which are pictured, were breathtaking and the air was so fresh and delicious. After lunch we toured two old churches, one of which was a Roman Catholic Church and the other which was a Greek Orthodox Catholic Church (pictured above). The two churches stood side by side, and we were given a tour by the local priest. He was a young, charismatic, and entertaining host who explained the history of both structures, as well as some of the differences in tradition between the Roman and Greek churches. We were able to enter the sanctuary where he described his robes, the various artwork, and some of the items used in the services.

When we left the churches, we drove a short distance to a mill where we got to see how the power of water can create cornmeal. It was a beautiful, family owned facility with the most gracious host who showed us around. After the short visit to the mill, we boarded the bus to head to dinner which was held at the Stepinac Vineyard in Krašić. The location of the vineyard was beautiful, set among the rolling green hills of Žumberak. The photo above does not even begin to detail the beauty of this region. The family who owns the winery greeted us enthusiastically, and then gave us a detailed tour of the fields where they described the process of winemaking. Once dinner was ready, we were treated to another multi-course dinner which took days to prepare. During this meal we had the most delicious Goulash I had ever tasted, and the chef was nice enough to share the recipe with me. I cannot wait to make this delightful, hearty dish for my friends and family. The day ended with song on the bus as the owners of the vineyard requested we sing to them as we drove off. It was simply a divinely beautiful day in a pristine little corner of Croatia.   

Wednesday, May 25th ~ Zagreb, Croatia: Andrija Stampar School of Public Health, Medvedgrad Fortress

Katherine

This morning the whole group went to the Andrija Štampar School of Public Health, which is a part of the University of Zagreb. We took a group photo on the steps of the school, which is included in this post. It is named after Andrija Štampar, who is thought of as the Father of Social Medicine. He believed highly in community health and that the community should agree on what they can tolerate for their health. Andrija Štampar's beliefs and work have shaped and directly built the health care in Croatia. 

At the institute we were fortunate to have two lectures from Dr. Vera Musil, MD and Dr. Ante Cvitković, MD. Dr. Vera Musil spoke to us about the health care system in Croatia. She gave us a detailed breakdown about how the health care system is organized and financed. One thing that I found interesting is that insurance is mandatory for every citizen. No matter if you are employed or unemployed you must have insurance. There are checks in place where insurance is provided for everyone, no matter their status. Health care is equally provided for all. She taught us a lot and I left feeling like I had a greater understanding of their health care system.

Dr. Ante Cvitković then gave us a brief lecture about public health issues that have directly affected a county called Brodsko Posavska (Slovanski Brod). The three case studies that he presented to us were a case on clean water, a case on clean air, and finally a case on a rare kidney disease called Endemic Nephropathy. The most unique case that he discussed was the case about Endemic Nephropathy. This disease is found all over the world in sporatic amounts and is very rare. What makes this case interesting is Endemic Nephropathy is highly concentrated in the county region. At this time researchers know that it is not genetically based but cannot determine what is causing this to happen.

After our time at the Andrija Štampar School of Public Health, we had lunch at a restaurant called Maksimir. We had another five course meal, including a cold course with salted meats, cheese and olives, salad, soup, a main course of various meats and vegetables, and a cherry pastry. We all enjoyed the meal and a break before heading out again.

When lunch ended, everyone piled back onto the bus and headed for the "Grazing Station." At the Grazing Station we learned that they do research on various grasses and determining which grass provides the best nutrients to produce the healthiest animal. We spent time walking the grounds and petting the cattle and looking at the various grasses, which are pictured above. The land sits up on a hill and has some of the prettiest views, one of which is pictured above.

Lastly we stopped briefly at a mid-13^th century fortress called Medvedgrad. It sat in the middle of the hills and over looked the entire city of Zagreb. The castle had two lookout towers and a moat to protect the residents from the devastating invasions of the Tartars. There was also an octagonal church on the grounds, which was a unique architectural addition. A lovely photo from Medvedgrad is included.

So far, the weather we have had during our trip has been amazing. It has been perfect for traveling around the country and exploring all of these sites. I hope that it stays this way. It is great to wake up every day knowing you are going to learn something new and see something you have never seen before. Again, I cannot wait to see all there is to come!

Tuesday, May 24th ~ Lonjsko Polje, Croatia

Morgan

Today was a day for appreciation. Appreciation of heritage, the environment, for the gift of human life. And the subsequent appreciation for how quickly it can all be taken away.

We started our daily adventure on an hour-long bus ride to Jasenovac Concentration Camp, which exists on both sides of the Croatia-Bosnia border. When our bus came to a stop at an expansive field with numerous mounds and a towering seventy-foot memorial, I was surprised to learn we had arrived at our destination: the remains of Jasenovac, which is pictured above. Home to the most harsh and brutal death camp in Croatia during World War II, Jasenovic served as a labor camp where individuals with religious, nationalistic, or anti-fascist origins were put to work in brick factories, in addition to constructing and maintaining the infrastructure of the camp. This forced manual labor was repaid with a horrifyingly inadequate diet. First hand accounts recall that a typical day’s meal would consist of hot water served for breakfast, a few bites of potato for lunch and another watery stew for dinner. Often the only condiment provided for flavor was added dirt.

Our guide was able to provide us with horrifying tales of torture and execution that occurred on the now scenic meadow. Bringing perspective to the picturesque landscape, marked by the stark presence of the concrete flower memorial, we heard as he explained how the train that now stands along the southern border of the camp would transport Jews, Serbs, Roma and anyone who stood against the fascist Ustashe regime from areas all over the then recognized Croatian puppet state. The journey could last up to ten days with minimal water and food supplied. Our guide further confirmed that many victims died in transit to the camp. Those who survived the journey were sorted upon arrival: those who entered the death camp to be abused and put to work and those who were taken directly to be executed.

Some of the techniques used to “liquidate” inmates at Jasenovac where not only unnerving, but previously unknown to me. There were no gas chambers on the property of Jasenovac, instead victims were executed brutally by guards using hammers and mallets. Also, as a form of torture and humiliation, some prisoners were sentenced to death by being fenced into an area on the northeast end of camp and then were restricted from food and water. The corpses of many bodies were then dumped into the Sava River, which runs along the southern border of the camp. Our guide recalled chilling accounts of civilians watching bodies float by their homes on a daily basis. 

It is estimated that upwards of 300,000 people were executed in the 14 death camps located throughout the state. These absolutely inhumane tactics and the unfathomable treatment of human beings is considered one of the darkest spots in Croatian history. From 1945-1990, many restrictions existed hindering citizens from speaking of the atrocities that occurred in Jasenovac and all other similar camps during World War II. Yet, during that time, all schoolchildren were required by law to visit the camp memorial. This compulsory action was seen more as a scare tactic, with graphic films and photographs, rather than a genuine appreciation for the crimes that were committed against so many.

We then toured the powerful memorial museum, which contains photographs of prisoners before their detainment, articles such as clothing, letters, and personal belongs, and first hand testaments of survivors in the form of video recordings which play on large screens throughout the museum. Perhaps the aspect of the museum that spoke the loudest was the rows of glass banners than ran the length of the building containing the 69,000 names of victims who died at Jasenovac in alphabetical order. A photo of this memorial is included. Since the museum was built the number of known victims has increased to 82,000.

After our moving experience at Jasenovac, we headed to unwind on a two-hour boat ride up the Sava River, which is pictured above. With Bosnia on our left and Croatia on our right, we rode upstream observing the natural beauty that is Lonjsko Polje Park. Our guide Edo Bogovic, directed us to a massive Cormorant nesting colony. We were able to enjoy other rare and some endangered wildlife that also call the shores of the Sava home, including numerous Kingfisher nests and a few 200 kg pigs. As we were headed back down stream, we stopped for lunch in the town of Krapje. Known for its fishing, annual floods, and rural tourism, we had an unbelievable meal at the gracious home of Jozin Budzak. We were once again stuffed full with a four course meal that included everything from chicken noodle soup, salad, catfish, chicken, pork, potatoes, a delicious dessert, and a novel item: elder flower juice!
    
We were then able to actually tour the Budzak home, which incidentally is also a bed and breakfast, as well as a farm they own which they have converted to maintain the rustic feel of a Croatian home of a century ago.

We quickly took a tour of a typical farm home in Krapje. Here we were informed of several architectural differences between German-influenced homes (pictured above as indicated by the wooden joints on the corners of the home) and Croatian homes in the area. Also, it was interesting to hear that when these structures were being constructed, taxes on windows, doors and chimneys existed. Thus, homes were built with small windows, few doors and chimneys below the roof. It was mind-blowing to walk by these wooden-beam homes that were built two centuries ago and realize that families still live here. That not only is the heritage in this place thriving, but the town itself is alive.

We wrapped up our powerful day with a quick film chronicling the four seasons of the breathtaking landscape that is Lonjsko Polje. It was impressive to watch cattle, hogs and horses roam free and then return to their home pastures on their own free will. It was phenomenal to see flocks of rare birds lounging on the river. How much we take for granted.

This above statement was the undercurrent for my day. As we walked through the Jasenovac memorial it was painful to think of the families torn apart, the futures destroyed, the inexplicable hurt of it all. I struggled to come to terms with just how lucky I am. On our boat ride it was fantastic to hear the enthusiasm in the voice of our guide. It made clear the fact that Lonjsko Polje Park is not the norm in today’s world. Natural rivers do not flow with an overabundance of rare wildlife in every corner of the earth. As a planet, we are so lucky to be able to still cling to these places. And then finally our visit to Krapje. Our hosts, the Budzak’s were possibly the kindest, most genuine people I have met in Croatia. And this is not because I have not met my fair share of amazing individuals here, but rather because it was evident that they rejoiced in their culture and loved their heritage. Not only this, but they were excited to share with us what they hold so dear. Appreciation for what has happened, for what we have, and from what we have come from.


Today was a good day.

Monday, May 23rd ~ Croatia National Archives, University of Zagreb, Hrvatski Autoclub, Croatia

Andie

The agenda for today included a lecture at the hotel, a walk to the Croatia National Archives where we attended a lecture and took a tour of the building, a trip to the University of Zagreb Faculty of Agriculture to attend a lecture and to visit the vineyard and wine experiment station, followed by a visit to the Croatian Auto Club.

During class, we discussed primary health care and the impact of poverty and culture on health. Historically, primary health care was not part of health until after World War II when there was an influx of soldiers with physical injuries and mental health problems resulting from the war. The World Health Organization focused on the need for primary health care in rural areas due to the gap in health indicators based on poverty and wealth status, with poverty being prevalent in rural areas. The goal was to build hospitals and provide services in these areas of economic hardship to reduce the health disparity gap between the wealthy and poor.

These changes, along with the innovations in health care discussed in a previous posting resulted in a demographic transition in society. In areas of low SES, there was limited population growth due to high fertility and mortality. Research has shown that an individual living in poverty loses 10 years from their expected life span as a result of their SES. There are various causes for this, which are lack of safe and adequate housing, consuming spoiled food or contaminated water, malnutrition, and lack of access to health services, education, resources and status. As medical innovations were introduced to fight infections, increase sanitation and allow individuals to control their own fertility, there was a shift to low fertility and low mortality rates in areas of higher SES. The demographic transitions required new resources and policies to be developed to care for the changing society. Finally we discussed the role of culture on health, which is the shared beliefs, meanings, ideas, and values of a group of people. We compared and contrasted the culture in the United States with Croatia.

After the class meeting, we walked to the Croatia National Archives where we attended a lecture on the Croatian Heritage Strategy by Dr. Jadran Antolović. This lecture was followed by a guided tour of the Archives. The building was a beautiful home for historical documents important to the culture of Croatia. These relics were surrounded by beautiful, ornate paintings and mosaics, as well as magnificent stained glass in the windows and ceiling, which are pictured above. Once the tour ended, we walked to lunch as a group and dined on another delicious four course meal of local cuisine.

After lunch we boarded our purple chariot and traveled a short distance to the University of Zagreb, Faculty of Agriculture. We attended a lecture on Croatian agriculture (pictured above), followed by a visit to the vineyard and wine experiment station. Here we toured the facility, including the wine cellar where the wine was produced and aged before bottling for distribution to the local area.


At the end of the tour, the group traveled to the Croatian Auto Club where Mr. Alan Vojvodić discussed the auto club and traffic safety issues in Croatia. Examples of antique vehicles were displayed in the lobby, and are pictured above. Traffic safety began in London in 1896 after Bridget Driscoll was killed by a vehicle. The police investigating this crash wanted to prevent future injuries and deaths, so they started to develop procedures to enhance road safety. Even though the concept of traffic safety began over 100 years ago, there is still a major problem with regards to injury and death related to vehicles. WHO determined in 2005 that traffic crashes are the tenth leading cause of death worldwide. It is estimated that by 2030 traffic crashes will move up to the fifth leading cause of death worldwide. This will primarily occur in areas of poverty, where there are inadequate roads and equipment. Three primary strategies were defined to help combat this problem, which are providing emergency assistance, increasing road safety, and developing and enforcing legislation related to traffic safety. In 2010 the United Nations declared the next 10 years as a “Decade for Action” for road safety with the goal of stabilizing the number of road crashes. It is projected that if 50% fewer people die as a result of a crash over the next decade, that one million lives will be saved by 2020.  

Currently in Croatia, laws and guidelines are established to promote safe driving. The minimum age to get a driver’s license is 18 for a car, and 16 for a motorcycle. There are laws in place regarding drinking and driving, as well as the use of cell phones while driving. Safety belts are required to be worn in both the front and back seats, and children are required to be in child safety seats until they reach a specific weight. Current preventative measures include providing driver education, safer vehicles and technology, and safer and forgiving roads. Trend data reveal an overall reduction in deaths, and the goal of no more than 10 per 100,000 deaths per year as a result of a car crash has been achieved. Even though all of this is in place, as mentioned in yesterdays post, there are safety issues on the roads in Croatia, making them a risk for crashes. In the city, roads are shared by vehicles, trams and bicycles, as well as pedestrians. While observing the flow of traffic, it appears to be organized chaos. Everyone seems to know how to navigate the roads to avoid a crash. I feel this may not be the case if an inexperienced driver or someone like us from another country tries to navigate the city. It would be stressful to be driving a city street in Zagreb to look up and see a tram in your back window, right behind you. Mr. Vojvodić stated that this could be rectified by restricting cars from driving on city streets; basically requiring them to park at the edge of town and riding transit into the city. This would simplify the traffic in the city dramatically, ultimately reducing the risk for traffic crashes. Overall this was a great day, packed with great lectures and experiences. I cannot wait for what tomorrow brings!

Sunday, May 22nd ~ Zagorje, Croatia

Katherine



What another amazing day in Croatia!  I do not think we could have asked for prettier weather. We covered a lot of ground and have learned a lot about public health throughout our travels. We talked about smoking and a little about disabilities; but today we learned the importance of two new aspects of public health: traffic safety and spas. I will do my best to incorporate these things throughout this post.

The first thing on our agenda was going to the Veliki Tabor castle. We headed out on our charter bus on a major highway when Dr. Cotton told us to keep a look out for the change in the roads. As we drove she asked us to keep in mind the three E’s of traffic safety: engineering, education, and enforcement. We focused today on the engineering aspect of the three E’s. On the main highway everything appeared to be relatively safe in engineering. The roads were paved, they were divided into multiple lanes, and there were traffic signs posted. Also, the highway had lights so people driving late at night could see and they had shoulders where could pull if they needed to. As we got closer to our destination it became very apparent that the standards for the highways were not the same for the back roads. The differences in these roads were pretty drastic. Although some of them were paved, they were not obviously divided into two lanes nor did they have streetlights for night travelers. The roads did not have any shoulders for people to pull over to if they were in an accident or having any kind of emergency. If someone needed to pull over, they most likely would become stuck in a ditch and would probably have trouble merging back on the road. They also did not cater to cars any larger than a small SUV. I could not be more thankful for our skilled and talented bus driver.  He made us feel very safe even though the conditions were not at all optimal for a charter bus. I am pretty sure he is the most skilled driver in the country if not the world. Travel safety is a major public health issue in Croatia as you can imagine with roads like these. Traffic injuries are the number one cause of injury death in Croatia. 18% of those deaths are pedestrian. People walk a lot on these roads and it is clear that they are not safe.  These drastic statistics raised my attention to the importance of traffic safety in Croatia and at home in the States.

We arrived safe and sound to the Veliki Tabor castle, which is pictured in the first three photos above. The castle is under major restoration and although it is not open to the public at this time, we were granted special access. The group took a tour of the castle and learned about the history behind it. The restoration that was completed gave us a good idea of what the castle looked like in its prime. After our tour, we had lunch at this beautiful restaurant called Grensna Gorica. They had tables set up outside and presented us with another five course meal. It was different than most of the others we have had so far because they made everything from the resources in their back yard. The picture that is posted does not do it justice. After lunch we got back onto the bus and traveled to Kumrovec, the hometown of Tito, the controversial dictator of Yugoslavia. Kumrovec has been turned into the only open-air museum in Croatia (very similar Williamsburg, VA in the U.S.).  This allowed us to experience the town as it as has been since its founding.

After our tour the group piled back into the bus for the long anticipated trip to the spa! Everyone was looking forward spending the rest of the day relaxing by the pool and experiencing other indulgences. The spa offered indoor and outdoor pools, water slides, an exercise gym, massages, facials, and reflexology, as well as hypertension and blood glucose screenings. The last photo posted was the stress-reduction lounge for use before and after a treatment. The spa gave us all an eye opening experience to the difference in our culture compared to Croatian culture. A few major differences I saw were: smoking in and around the pool, coed changing rooms, Speedo’s, and public nudity to name a few. After getting over all of those things, it seemed that everyone relaxed and enjoyed themselves. It was a nice way to spend the afternoon.

On our way back to Zagreb, Dr. Cotton explained to us how much importance the people of Croatia place on spas, thermal springs, and sanitariums for their health needs. Croats will take up to a month off of work to spend time at these places. They still get paid for their time off and insurance will pay for their stay. Unlike the U.S., Croatians believe in maintaining health by maintaining a temperament lifestyle. These holistic approaches to dealing with medicinal needs appear to help the people stay relatively healthy. In my opinion after experiencing the spa today, it relieves stress and allows the body and mind to relax. I certainly felt healthier after leaving and if I can speak for the group, everyone else seemed to be feeling better as well.

Everyday so far has been absolutely amazing. It blows my mind how much we have already seen in just three days. Looking at our itinerary, we have even more to look forward to. Even though they are long days, I look forward to every morning I wake up in this country. Look forward to writing soon! 

Saturday, May 21st ~ Plitvice Lakes & Karlovac, Croatia

Morgan

It is an incredible realization when I come to the conclusion that it is likely that every night here in Croatia I will be able to say, “Today was a good day”. Our day began when we boarded quite possibly the most comfortable coach bus of all time. For the first leg of our travel our professors gave brief lectures on the bus that were pertinent to the day’s outings. Following these impromptu class sessions (and a quick nap), we arrived at our main destination: Plitvice Lake Park. As one of Croatia’s World Heritage sites, the park offers expansive birch and spruce forests, rolling meadows and, perhaps most notably, a breathtaking 16 lake system, which is connected by stunning waterfalls, as pictured above. When we unloaded our bus, we were met by our guide Mr. Kresmir Culinovic. Having prepared a presentation highlighting the fundamental value and historical significance of the entire park, Mr. Kresmir proved to be the most knowledgeable of guides. The lake system covers a mere 1% of the park, yet it’s striking aesthetics draws upward of one million visitors annually. As a group we explored the “lower” and “middle” lake sections of Plitvice.

           

We caught a bus from the park entrance to a high mountainside overlooking the lakes. From here, our group seemingly scaled the mountainside until we reached a path along the shores of the lower lakes and ended at a massive waterfall, which was fed by the Plitvic River.   The group gathered to take a photo under the falls, which is attached. Our journey along the lake system ended when we walked back up to the largest lake, found in the central section. We caught an electric ferry across the lake where the only thing that stood between us was another uphill climb.

As we have already reiterated, the smoking rates here are sky high. Having observed this widespread use throughout the urban areas in Zagreb, it was interesting to find a seemingly less prevalence of cigarette smoking in the region surrounding Plitvice Park. This may simply be attributed to the lower population density in the area, but some may point to the indirect effects that recreational areas, such as Plitvice Park, can have on it’s surrounding community. During lecture on the bus, Dr. Cotton mentioned the benefits of a community with the presence of park areas or other recreational spaces. The link between wellness and such spaces can be seen in the citizens’ sense of identity with the parks. The idea of stewardship provides a sense of pride, which is directly linked with a reduction in crime and an increase of volunteerism. The activity possibilities these areas offer can also lead to increased levels of physical activity. Even moderate activity has been found to reduce the size of the proteins that carry low protein lipoproteins, which is often referred to as “bad cholesterol”. Such opportunities have positive affects on everyone who lives near or visits the parks. 

     

Something else Andie referenced in her earlier post is the inadequate access for those with disabilities in Zagreb. Unfortunately, today we became aware that this issue is not isolated to the capital city. It is important to note that Plitvice Park is located in the heart of the mountainous Karst region in central Croatia, yet there seemed to be very little effort to make the park accessible to those with disabilities in the least. All of the paths, be in the mountainside or along the shores of the lakes, were rugged, uneven, and lacked handrails, as shown in the attached photo. There were no impediments that separated park visitors from either jumping or falling into the water. It is remarkable to note the different standards that exist here compared to those in the United States concerning disability accessibility. It is easy to expect that this will be a topic in many of our posts throughout our stay in this country. 

After our fresh fish lunch, we headed back to the Jadran. On our way back into Zagreb, we stopped in the city of Karlovac. Dr. Cotton and Dr. Reap told us before we started our tour that they have been trying for the past several years to establish a permanent UGA institution in Croatia, much like the resources the school owns in Costa Rica and at Oxford. The site that is being considered at this time is located in Karlovac. It was interesting to keep this possibility in mind as we walked through the streets of the city. Our guide, Ivan Zelenic, a geography professor at a small university here in Croatia, took us to several establishments in the town, and also provided us with background information about the regions longstanding and complex history.

After another uphill climb to view a medieval castle, which was cut short by a brief thunderstorm, we were able to take a stroll into the heart of Karlovac. In the town square, our guide further explained his thoughts about the economical and industrial oppression of the city. He attributed the current neglect to society’s inability to focus any thought or resources to anywhere other than the industrial center, Zagreb. Yet, he also voiced opinions that directly blamed the West, specifically the United States, for many of the local downfalls. Dr. Reap later attributed this explanation by stating that the U.S. as a wealthy and powerful nation, is a big and easy target, but also that we are not perfect. When asked why some accuse the West, our study abroad “assistant” from the Pilar Institute, Anja, simply stated “They just want someone to blame”.

Today was an incredible experience that allowed us to observe just another aspect of Croatian heritage.  Being able to view the deep historical substance both in Plitvice and Karlovac, allowed us the first opportunity to observe Croat culture outside of the concentration of what is Zagreb. I cannot wait for our next opportunity to explore the seemingly limitless facets of Croatian life.

Friday, May 20th ~ Zagreb, Croatia

Andie

The agenda for today included a walk to the Pilar Institute (see attached photo) where each class met for an hour, a lecture by Luka Šikić about the SES process of Croatia, and a three hour walking tour led by Dr. Vedran Prelogović of the historical sights of Zagreb.

During class, we discussed the history and definition of health promotion. Until the early 1900’s, people had a short life span, dying from disease and injury. With the advent of vaccinations and antibiotics, death due to infections decreased, resulting in a longer life span. People are now living long enough to develop chronic diseases such as heart disease, which is the number one cause of death worldwide. In Croatia, 75% of deaths are related to circulatory illnesses and cancer.  As a result, a shift from treatment to prevention was needed to combat this new health threat and the field of health promotion was born. Through a series of international health promotion conferences, the discipline was framed, partnerships were created, and guidelines were developed to promote health worldwide.

We also discussed the Millennium Development Goals, which include eight goals that come from the Millennium Declaration, signed by 189 countries in September 2000. The purpose of these goals includes; 1) eradicating extreme poverty and hunger, 2) achieving universal primary education, 3) promoting gender equality and empower women, 4) reducing child mortality, 5) improving maternal health, 6) combating HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases, 7) ensuring environmental sustainability, and 8) developing a global partnership for development. These goals are related to the top ten “best buys” in health, which aim to combat specific health issues worldwide, including maternal and child health, HIV/AIDS, Malaria, injury prevention, tuberculosis, cardiovascular disease and smoking. Smoking is especially problematic as 33% of deaths worldwide are linked to tobacco use, resulting in cancer, cardiovascular disease, COPD and asthma. In Croatia, men smoke more frequently than women, resulting in high rates of trachea, bronchial, and lung cancers. As Morgan and I stated in yesterdays post, the prevalence of smoking in Croatia is much greater than in the U.S. Smoking is allowed in most public places, with the exception of schools and hospitals. Even so, during class we had to deal with smoke as there was a café below our third story window and the smoke wafted in throughout the hour.  

After classes ended, the group met for lunch and then had a quick rest break. We reconvened at the Pilar Institute for Luka Šikić’s lecture on the economic changes in Croatia. He briefly defined communism and capitalism and discussed the historical implications for Croatia. Since 1990, Croatia has been undergoing the transfer of state ownership to the establishment of private property rights with the overall goal of becoming a market economy. He stated that Croatia should become a part of the European Union within the next two years.

When the lecture concluded, the class met Dr. Vedran Prelogović, who led us on a walking tour of the historical sights of Zagreb. We learned that Zagreb is the hub for all of Croatia; for education, economics, entertainment and cultural activities. We toured past the opera house (pictured above), the Croatian Museum of Naïve Art, the Mimara Museum, and the Arts and Crafts Museum. Along the walk we were treated to the many public parks in the city center. There are eight beautiful green spaces throughout Zagreb and they were full of people enjoying the wonderful weather. It was great to actually see planned green space, and to witness people enjoying the space available to them. During the tour we trekked through the historical section of Zagreb and visited the Zagreb Cathedral, one of the tallest in Eastern Europe. We learned that the Pope would be visiting at the beginning of June for two days. We moved on to Dolac which has an open air produce market where locally grown foods can be purchased each morning. We took a group photo with the spires of the cathedral in the background, which is attached. The tour ended near the main square just in time for dinner. Overall this was a delightful introduction to the history and many offerings of Zagreb.