Today was a day for appreciation. Appreciation of heritage, the environment, for the gift of human life. And the subsequent appreciation for how quickly it can all be taken away.
We started our daily adventure on an hour-long bus ride to Jasenovac Concentration Camp, which exists on both sides of the Croatia-Bosnia border. When our bus came to a stop at an expansive field with numerous mounds and a towering seventy-foot memorial, I was surprised to learn we had arrived at our destination: the remains of Jasenovac, which is pictured above. Home to the most harsh and brutal death camp in Croatia during World War II, Jasenovic served as a labor camp where individuals with religious, nationalistic, or anti-fascist origins were put to work in brick factories, in addition to constructing and maintaining the infrastructure of the camp. This forced manual labor was repaid with a horrifyingly inadequate diet. First hand accounts recall that a typical day’s meal would consist of hot water served for breakfast, a few bites of potato for lunch and another watery stew for dinner. Often the only condiment provided for flavor was added dirt.
Our guide was able to provide us with horrifying tales of torture and execution that occurred on the now scenic meadow. Bringing perspective to the picturesque landscape, marked by the stark presence of the concrete flower memorial, we heard as he explained how the train that now stands along the southern border of the camp would transport Jews, Serbs, Roma and anyone who stood against the fascist Ustashe regime from areas all over the then recognized Croatian puppet state. The journey could last up to ten days with minimal water and food supplied. Our guide further confirmed that many victims died in transit to the camp. Those who survived the journey were sorted upon arrival: those who entered the death camp to be abused and put to work and those who were taken directly to be executed.
Some of the techniques used to “liquidate” inmates at Jasenovac where not only unnerving, but previously unknown to me. There were no gas chambers on the property of Jasenovac, instead victims were executed brutally by guards using hammers and mallets. Also, as a form of torture and humiliation, some prisoners were sentenced to death by being fenced into an area on the northeast end of camp and then were restricted from food and water. The corpses of many bodies were then dumped into the Sava River, which runs along the southern border of the camp. Our guide recalled chilling accounts of civilians watching bodies float by their homes on a daily basis.
It is estimated that upwards of 300,000 people were executed in the 14 death camps located throughout the state. These absolutely inhumane tactics and the unfathomable treatment of human beings is considered one of the darkest spots in Croatian history. From 1945-1990, many restrictions existed hindering citizens from speaking of the atrocities that occurred in Jasenovac and all other similar camps during World War II. Yet, during that time, all schoolchildren were required by law to visit the camp memorial. This compulsory action was seen more as a scare tactic, with graphic films and photographs, rather than a genuine appreciation for the crimes that were committed against so many.
We then toured the powerful memorial museum, which contains photographs of prisoners before their detainment, articles such as clothing, letters, and personal belongs, and first hand testaments of survivors in the form of video recordings which play on large screens throughout the museum. Perhaps the aspect of the museum that spoke the loudest was the rows of glass banners than ran the length of the building containing the 69,000 names of victims who died at Jasenovac in alphabetical order. A photo of this memorial is included. Since the museum was built the number of known victims has increased to 82,000.
After our moving experience at Jasenovac, we headed to unwind on a two-hour boat ride up the Sava River, which is pictured above. With Bosnia on our left and Croatia on our right, we rode upstream observing the natural beauty that is Lonjsko Polje Park. Our guide Edo Bogovic, directed us to a massive Cormorant nesting colony. We were able to enjoy other rare and some endangered wildlife that also call the shores of the Sava home, including numerous Kingfisher nests and a few 200 kg pigs. As we were headed back down stream, we stopped for lunch in the town of Krapje. Known for its fishing, annual floods, and rural tourism, we had an unbelievable meal at the gracious home of Jozin Budzak. We were once again stuffed full with a four course meal that included everything from chicken noodle soup, salad, catfish, chicken, pork, potatoes, a delicious dessert, and a novel item: elder flower juice!
We were then able to actually tour the Budzak home, which incidentally is also a bed and breakfast, as well as a farm they own which they have converted to maintain the rustic feel of a Croatian home of a century ago.
We quickly took a tour of a typical farm home in Krapje. Here we were informed of several architectural differences between German-influenced homes (pictured above as indicated by the wooden joints on the corners of the home) and Croatian homes in the area. Also, it was interesting to hear that when these structures were being constructed, taxes on windows, doors and chimneys existed. Thus, homes were built with small windows, few doors and chimneys below the roof. It was mind-blowing to walk by these wooden-beam homes that were built two centuries ago and realize that families still live here. That not only is the heritage in this place thriving, but the town itself is alive.
We wrapped up our powerful day with a quick film chronicling the four seasons of the breathtaking landscape that is Lonjsko Polje. It was impressive to watch cattle, hogs and horses roam free and then return to their home pastures on their own free will. It was phenomenal to see flocks of rare birds lounging on the river. How much we take for granted.
This above statement was the undercurrent for my day. As we walked through the Jasenovac memorial it was painful to think of the families torn apart, the futures destroyed, the inexplicable hurt of it all. I struggled to come to terms with just how lucky I am. On our boat ride it was fantastic to hear the enthusiasm in the voice of our guide. It made clear the fact that Lonjsko Polje Park is not the norm in today’s world. Natural rivers do not flow with an overabundance of rare wildlife in every corner of the earth. As a planet, we are so lucky to be able to still cling to these places. And then finally our visit to Krapje. Our hosts, the Budzak’s were possibly the kindest, most genuine people I have met in Croatia. And this is not because I have not met my fair share of amazing individuals here, but rather because it was evident that they rejoiced in their culture and loved their heritage. Not only this, but they were excited to share with us what they hold so dear. Appreciation for what has happened, for what we have, and from what we have come from.
Today was a good day.
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